South American Adventure - MVD-SCL-MIA-IAD-DEN

1. Booking
2. DEN-IAD-ATL-MIA
3. Miami
4. MIA-SCL
5. SCL-IPC
6. Easter Island
7. IPC-SCL
8. Santiago
9. SCL-MVD
10. Montevideo
11. MVD-SCL-MIA-IAD-DEN

What would you do with a 13 hour layover in Santiago?  I could go into town and see something or stay in the airport and fill up on sushi and beer in the lounge.  I had just been in Santiago the day before and there wasn’t anything in town I felt I had missed, so I took the lounge option (it was also less risky as the public transit is not exceptionally reliable and saves me 2 hours standing in line at customs). 

Lucky for me, LAN helped shorten the layover because my flight from Montevideo was delayed an hour.  I arrived at the airport about 75 minutes before departure to check my bag.  Check in was very leisurely and the agents were exceptionally friendly and talkative. They seemed sincerely interested in my experience in Uruguay and my travels that day. Once my boarding passes were printed, I asked how long customs would take; they said not to worry, there was no need to rush because the flight would be a little delayed.  

Montevideo Airport, MVD

Montevideo airport has an entertaining display about the history of aviation in Uruguay that includes photos, tickets, and a small plane (not as large as MKE's museum, but still a welcome enhancement).  I also picked up some souvenirs (the tea cup and straw things that everyone has in town) and enjoyed the grand vistas the terminal provides. For an airport with four gates, it presents an impressive figure and has quite a few amenities like an observation level and indoor garden.

Montevideo Airport, MVD

I love airports that give large sweeping views and Montevideo is the best example I have found. Airports should inspire and build excitement about flight. Large windows that lift your view to the sky are a great way to convey those strong feelings and emotions. Seattle's food court area does a similar job too, though on a smaller scale. Too many airports in the US, like LGA, IAD, and BOS, have low ceilings with limited windows and views blocked by jetways.  Airports should be inspirational, not a utilitarian exercise in moving people and things.  Montevideo does a great job at this and new terminals should aspire to be like it.

Montevideo Airport Aviation Display, MVD

Montevideo Airport, MVD, Gate Area

Customs and security took maybe 5 minutes.  The duty free store had a very good wine and liquor selection, but no cigars (US$17 for a carton of Camels though).  There was a very wide selection products and decent prices.  The terminal has free wifi and little else to do but look out the window. Regional carrier Pluna has some really cool looking paint designs, take a look at their planes.

Montevideo Airport, MVD

LAN Chile 318 in Montevideo

My flight boarded 30 minutes late and departed about 90 minutes late.  This was my first flight on an Airbus 318 and I was excited to try out an new airplane model; turns out it is just like a 319 or 320, just not as long (the nerd in me was still happy to check off a new aircraft type).  The in-flight entertainment was a news program (looked recently updated with a long sports section) and a light snack served in coach.  The plane did have 6 flight attendants; double what a US airline would staff.  It turns out two of them are dedicated to duty free sales.  The flight was enjoyable with some great views of Argentina and the Andes.

LAN Chile 318 Business Class

LAN Chile 318 Coach Class

Snack in coach on LAN Chile 318

LAN Chile 318 Leg Room in Coach

Once on the ground, I went to the connecting passenger area and entered the departures area.  Once there I found the first LAN VIP Salon and took a seat with a view.  I had wifi, two magazines to read, and endless plates of sushi and finger sandwiches.  After a few hours, I was bored and went for a walk to see what each end of the terminal looks like.  There are quite a few stores in the airport, but they all seem to carry the same items.  Still, it is a good way to kill time and stretch. 

LAN boarding area, makes Denver look orderly

Next I decided to check out the other LAN VIP Salon in Santiago.  It was like the first one but slightly larger and with many more people.  I found a nice quiet corner to do some work, but after an hour or two, a family tried to take it over for their exclusive use.  They knew that being loud and letting their children run around and scream was a great way to get their own space.  A short while after I moved (and refilled my plate and glass) a lounge attendant told them to keep it down and start parenting (or so I thought, her tone sounded like she was threatening to kick them out). There was also a couple that rearranged the chairs to make a bed; again detracting from the lofty feel of the place.  I was able to keep occupied with work emails, Google voice calls home, and Netflix for the next couple hours while trying to tune out the increasingly louder lounge (the smaller more peaceful lounge closes at 6pm).

After filling up on sushi, beer, and reading material, it was time to go home. Boarding was delayed again though after 12 hours, what's another 20 minutes? Business class was about 40% full, so I had no seat mate and spread out.  I was really tired and ready to pass out asleep, buy stayed up to have dinner.  It was a similar dish to my previous meals on LAN, but just tasted a little off, maybe the soy sauce and wasabi effected my palate. The cheese plate was welcome as always and I wish United would add it to their in-flight service. I also never got my ice cream for desert; a problem with the crew's attention to customers, not limited catering supplies.

LAN Chile 767 Business Class Meal from Santiago (SCL)

After my tray was cleared, I reclined the seat flat and was out like a light.  The crew woke me 30 minutes before landing for the light breakfast option, a croissant and fruit.  I nibbled for a few minutes, trying to shake my groggy feeling. Before I knew it, the cabin was being prepared for landing.  The customs line at Miami was short and slow, but I wasn’t in a rush because I checked my bag. 

I made it through customs (polite and friendly agents, just very slow and methodical), grabbed my bag and went to check in for my United Airlines flight 3.5 hours away.  The United agent said it was too early to check in, but I could get on an earlier flight.  I was inside the checked bag window, but she said it would most likely make the flight.  I jumped on the offer to go home early even though if my bag didn't make it, I would have to wait 4 hours for it in Denver. 

The flight to Dulles was a little delayed, good news for my bag, but I couldn't see the loading operation to make sure it was there.  I didn’t clear an upgrade, but had the first row in coach with miles of legroom.  My flight seemed to be a regular commuter flight for United employees.  Everyone knew everyone and there was a lot of shop talk.  The segment was uneventful and before long I was in Dulles and off to the final part of my trip.  I had a 40 minute connection, not enough time to visit the Lufthansa lounge, but fine for a leisurely stroll to the gate.

First row in coach on United E170

The flight to Denver was 99% full and my upgrade didn’t clear again.  I slept most of the flight so it was the best of the day.  The landing was smooth and the taxi quick.  I made it to the baggage claim area in time to see my bag pop up on the belt.  My trip was over and my bag made it with me, if a few minutes later.

South American Adventure - SCL-MVD

1. Booking
2. DEN-IAD-ATL-MIA
3. Miami
4. MIA-SCL
5. SCL-IPC
6. Easter Island
7. IPC-SCL
8. Santiago
9. SCL-MVD
10. Montevideo
11. MVD-SCL-MIA-IAD-DEN

I was surprised to find a 767 going from Santiago to Montevideo on a Sunday morning. Could there be such an increase in traffic to merit the significantly larger plane than the standard A318?  I wasn’t going to complain because there was excellent business class availability and it is equipped with the long haul lay flat seats.  This was going to be a fun hop over the Andes. 

Santiago Airport Mass of Coach Passengers

I arrived at Santiago airport and found a giant mass of people by the LAN check in desks.  I looked for the business class desk, but couldn’t find it.  I asked an agent and she directed me to the far end of the airport.  After I walked from one end to the other, I found the LAN international business class check in lounge.  There was no line and plenty of people to help me with my flight.  The space feels private and removed from the rest of the terminal, but that is balanced out by the lack of signage. 

LAN Business Class Check In, SCL - Santiago Chile

There is nothing really to do on the ground side, so I went into the customs line and then to security.  The customs line looks long, but moves fast.  There were a few Asian passengers that blatantly cut the line, but they didn’t respond to people’s comments in Spanish or English, so they got away with it.  After customs and security there is the duty free shop.  It’s large, but doesn’t have anything special.  Most amusingly, the walk in humidor’s door was broken in the open position, so all the cigars were ruined (but still for sale).  I wasn’t interested in shopping because I would be back in a day and have a long layover.  I did grab some prices off the Scotch to compare with Montevideo.  Both airports price items in USD making shopping simple unless you, like me, were in a habit of dividing by 500 to convert into dollars.  3000 pesos ($6) for dry Cuban cigars isn’t bad, $30 for the same broken cigars is a rip off.

Looming over this trip was my 13 hour layover the next day.  I didn’t want to see or do anything so I can have something new to see the next day.  I quickly found the LAN VIP Salon lounge and grabbed a seat.  The free wifi was lightning fast and there was a decent food and drink spread for mid-morning.  The lounge was comfortable and quiet; I was the only tourist in the place.  I enjoyed some surprisingly tasty finger sandwiches and a few Cokes while I caught up on email.

LAN VIP Salon, SCL - Santiago Chile

I went to the gate a few minutes before boarding; SCL is a small airport so you are never more than 5 minutes from your gate.  When I arrived, I saw the crew still in the gate area and settled in for another delayed LAN experience.   When the boarding announcement was made, the gate agent started with families, but it was a tad messy because they had to fight their way, strollers and all, through all the other passengers lined up for boarding.  When general boarding began, business class went first.  The agent stopped me to put a gate check on my roller bag.  I knew it would fit no problem, even in the crazy small 767 bins.  Luckily he put the tag on the top of my bag, so I just placed my backpack on top of my bag to hide the tag.  I boarded, tossed my bag in the bin and it was a non-issue. 

LAN Chile Business Class Preflight Snack

I was settled with a Coke and some nuts while the rest of the plane boarded.  Late in boarding an American family of four sat down in business class and one of their grade school age children said “What is this Mom?  I thought we were sitting in first class.”  Wow.  Really, it was said as obnoxiously as you think.  After my initial shock, I started laughing.  The parents noticed and then explained to their son that not all planes have first and they were in the best seats on the plane.  The explanation also made me laugh (I would have preferred a “be polite or sit in the back” style reprimand).

LAN Chile 767 Business Class Cabin Panorama

A few minutes after takeoff we were flying over the Andes.  There was an announcement made to stay buckled up even though it was smooth sailing.  There are some great views too and 15 minutes later, it was over and then came the plains of Argentina. After the Andes, a simple, but flavorful, turkey salad was served for lunch.  The cheese plate was great as always, but there was mold on the fruit (gross, but noticed before I ate any).  I substituted wine for fruit and vegetable serving.  

Andes Mountains

Business Class Meal on LAN Chile 767 to Montevideo

A gentle landing was followed by a quick taxi.  I was first off the plane and first in line for customs.  The customs agent was friendly and worked quickly.  I grabbed a Champaign sample on my way through the duty free store after customs and found the taxi desk.  I had less than 24 hours in Montevideo and I needed to make the most of them.

South American Adventure - IPC-SCL

1. Booking
2. DEN-IAD-ATL-MIA
3. Miami
4. MIA-SCL
5. SCL-IPC
6. Easter Island
7. IPC-SCL
8. Santiago
9. SCL-MVD
10. Montevideo
11. MVD-SCL-MIA-IAD-DEN

I’m starting to get the LAN experience down.  This Easter Island to Santiago flight will be my third consecutive LAN business class flight on a 767 and have a good idea for the drill.  The flight doesn’t board until after 2, but LAN wants you checked in around 12:30; this still gives you a fair amount of time to see something in the morning, it is a small island.  They do run a Southwest style fast turn on the jet once it lands.  There is very little to do at the airport.  There is no business lounge, a small bar, and about a dozen souvenir stands.  Most of the action comes from watching the plane land and the ground crew spring into action.  There is also free Wi-Fi in the terminal.

LAN 767 arriving at Easter Island

Boarding started abruptly and haphazardly.  There was no announcement or boarding order; just a large mash of people formed around the gate agent and started walking to the plane.  IPC has no jet bridge, so it was a hop across the tarmac and up the stairs.  I had seat 4A, not realizing that row 4 is missing a window.  There isn’t much to see, but it does make for a little claustrophobic feeling.  The business class cabin was full and the flight attendants were trying to facilitate some seat switching.  I won seatmate lottery by getting an Antarctic research vessel crew member to talk with for 5 hours.  Very interesting stuff and now I really want to go and explore the southern limits of the earth (she worked as a liaison on a US flagged ship and made bank why playing with penguins and motor boats, sound like a great job).

Boarding my flight to SCL

The plane boarded fast and we were quickly away.  The meal service was what I expected from LAN, three courses and decent quality, again with a wide wine selection.  I did try one of the domestic beers, Chrystal, and it was awful; I used a Heineken to get the taste out.  I understand now why Corona and Tecate are imported to Easter Island.  After the meal service, the flight attendants were scarce (standard procedure I guess).  Ring the call button to get a refill because they don’t check very often.

LAN Business Class Meal

I watched two movies on the flight.  LAN’s inflight entertainment is very good and they have quite a few selections.  The time went very quickly.  Halfway through my flight though my seat broke and a flight attendant was able to fix it, but it looked like she had to take it apart.  The flight attendant was able to take care of it in less than 5 minutes; I had a feeling this wasn’t the first time she saw this problem. 

LAN 767 Business Class Seat

LAN 767 Business Class Seat

LAN 767 Business Class Seat

Landing was smooth and then I had a quick taxi to the gate.  I wished my seat mate safe travel back to Alaska and made my way to the Trans VIP counter to get a ride to my hotel in Santiago.  Trans VIP charges about $12 to go into Santiago.  They run new vans (4,000 kms on mine) and depart very frequently; an overall great experience and recommended highly.  It’s good to have your hotel’s address handy just in case they don’t recognize it.  It took less than an hour from landing to arriving at my hotel, the Intercontinental Santiago.

LAN 767-300

South American Adventure - SCL-IPC

1. Booking
2. DEN-IAD-ATL-MIA
3. Miami
4. MIA-SCL
5. SCL-IPC
6. Easter Island
7. IPC-SCL
8. Santiago
9. SCL-MVD
10. Montevideo
11. MVD-SCL-MIA-IAD-DEN

I made it into Chile without having to pay the $140 reciprocity fee and was excited for my trip to Easter Island.  I had about ninety minutes to kill before boarding, so I decided to wander the terminal and then hang out in the lounge.   The ground side of Santiago’s airport is pretty small and there isn’t much to see.  I went through the domestic security and did not have to take off my shoes, remove my laptop, worry about liquid restrictions, or have a naked image of me taken.  Accordingly, the line moved fast.  There isn’t much on the domestic side of the airport, with good reason, someone can show up 30 minutes before their departure and should catch their flight.

I went looking for the LAN lounge only to find that both locations are on the international side of the airport.  There was a pay lounge (or Platinum Amex/ Priority Pass) available, but I didn’t bother.  Instead I found a nice window and pulled out a magazine I had packed.  The time went by quickly.

Santiago Chile Airport

Boarding started a little behind schedule, but went quickly.  LAN boards flights by row number and lines up everyone at the start.  Business class boarded first and I was jumping my way down the jet bridge with excitement.  I was stopped at the aircraft door because the crew was still preparing the plane.  After about 5 minutes, I took my seat and quickly settled in.  The 767 Business class to Easter Island is the same as the long haul international business class on LAN. 

LAN Business Class Meal to Easter Island

The flight boarded quickly and we were underway early.  A quick breakfast service was served soon after we crossed the coast line.  It was a simple (bland) omelet with veggies.  I wasn’t that hungry as I just had a similarly bland breakfast three hours prior on my last flight.

It is five hours over the ocean to Easter Island and I tried to sleep for most of them.  The flight attendant gave me a comforter and I quickly fell asleep.  I can sleep in United’s coach if I’m tried enough, so even though LAN’s business class seats aren't the most comfortable, I was out like a light.

Entrance to IPC terminal

I woke up about 45 minutes before landing and watched part of a movie.  I had a great view of the island as we came in to land.  Easter Island is a very small dot in a very large ocean.  We taxied to the terminal and the whole island seemed to come and meet the flight.  They use stairs at the front and back of the plane, then its a quick walk across the tarmac to the terminal.  There was a band playing and people with leis.  Before you enter the terminal building, purchase a national park pass from the small desk on the left.  It is $50 there, but $60 at the parks.  They also load you up with maps.  I quickly walked through the building and tried to find my name among the scores of drivers picking up passengers.

South American Adventure - MIA-SCL

1. Booking
2. DEN-IAD-ATL-MIA
3. Miami
4. MIA-SCL
5. SCL-IPC
6. Easter Island
7. IPC-SCL
8. Santiago
9. SCL-MVD
10. Montevideo
11. MVD-SCL-MIA-IAD-DEN

I arrived at MIA very early for my flight because I wanted to see everything LAN had to offer.  Turns out I was a tad optimistic.  There was a dedicated check in counter for Business passengers with no line, while there were over 60 people in line for the coach counter.  Check in was fast and I was given my MIA-SCL boarding pass and a lounge invitation. 

Last time without a line

MIA, if you are not connecting, is a nice airport.  There were plenty of good views, I saw the Lufthansa A380 push back, decent food options, and great duty free shopping available.  There wasn’t even a line at security.  I stopped into most of the shops in south terminal and then went to the LAN contract lounge, Club America – J.  The lounge has a First Class side and a Business Class side, both had the same offerings.  I was directed to the smaller First Class side.  The lounge had free wifi, light snacks, soups, sodas, and off brand liquor.  Like many lounges there is a shortage of outlets and they are not easy to access.  There was a computer room with a few machines for shared use (though most users didn’t feel inclined to share).  The food offerings were mostly chips and cookies with a few finger sandwiches that were never refilled; I was generally disappointed after enjoying the wide spread offered by Lufthansa earlier in the trip.  Also, the lounge became very full, lots of poorly behaved kids, later in the night just before most of the LAN flights started go.

Club America - J, before the rush

LAN doesn’t board on time or in a very organized manner anywhere in their network.  Boarding started about 25 minutes late for no apparent reason.  I was at the front of the mess and made it on board without too much pushing around.  The Business cabin on the 767 had new lay flat seats with a 15in screen.  The cabin was 5 rows of 2x2x2 seating and 100% full.  I had a window seat and was quickly situated.   

One of several LAN 767-300's at MIA

LAN Business Class Seat

When the airline has no first class, what type of food service in the highest class should you expect?  I hope hoping for first class presentation, first class attention, and business class portions and courses.  It wound up it was all business class, but with coach class service.  The drink service started about 40 minutes after takeoff, a long wait for such a late departure.  Airlines should be quick to start service to maximize sleeping time on overnight flights like this.  I started with a salmon appetizer accompanied with salad and cheeses.  That was followed by a small fillet with mashed potatoes and mixed veggies.  I opted for ice cream for dessert.  The meal was good and the wines offered were excellent South American offerings, but this was offset by slow and not attentive service (there was a long stretch when my wine and water glasses were empty).

Appetizer - LAN Business Class

Main - LAN Business Class

Desert - LAN Business Class

After dinner I settled into my seat to watch a movie before bed.  The was a large selection and wide variety of films to pick (I watched 500 Days of Summer and it was a real bummer).  After the movie, I put my seat down to the flat position and went almost right to sleep.  The seats are described as parallel to the floor flat seats, not angled flat.  It’s true, but it felt like each seat section was a little bit lower than the last, like a stepped configuration.  This made it feel more slanted than I liked, but I drank a lot of red wine and it was late, so I was out like a light in any setting.

Breakfast was offered before arrival.  I opted for the full breakfast served 45 minutes before arrival over the quick bite meal served just before landing.  The meal consisted of scrambled eggs, potatoes and some fruit.  It was very bland.

Full Breakfast

The plane landed on time and there was a quick taxi to the gate.  Once the seatbelt sign came off two flight attendants rushed down the aisle and closed the curtains separating coach. I’ve never seen this before, but it’s a cool way to keep business class passengers from feeling rushed.  SCL charges a $140 fee to Americans to come into Chile (not charged for international transit passengers), but I used Irish passport and avoided the charge.  LAN does not give out customs fast track passes, so the immigration line took about 40 minutes to clear.  After customs, I went through a duty free shop, down to baggage claim, through agricultural inspection (all your bags will go through a screener), and finally into Chile.  Plan on it taking an hour without checked bags and 90 minutes with.

South American Adventure - Booking

1. Booking
2. DEN-IAD-ATL-MIA
3. Miami
4. MIA-SCL
5. SCL-IPC
6. Easter Island
7. IPC-SCL
8. Santiago
9. SCL-MVD
10. Montevideo
11. MVD-SCL-MIA-IAD-DEN

I only have 10 days off a year and they don’t roll over, so I have to be careful with their use. I wind up sitting on them and using them as needed.  Then October comes and I have 8 left, so I start planning a year end trip to finish them off.  I have always had a fascination with South America, but never had an excuse to go there.  Then I collected about 160,000 British Airways miles through a credit card bonus and buying coins at face value with free shipping.  British Airways charges exorbitant fuel surcharges on their own reward flights, but not on partners.

I ran a search one day and found a round trip to Santiago and found it was 80,000 miles and $60 in business class.  A round trip to London in business was 100,000 miles and $840.  My mind was made; I was going to South America.  British Airways allowed (this policy and pricing has changed since I booked) unlimited stopovers in a region, as long as you stayed on the same airline.  I wanted to go to Easter Island and then as many other places as I could manage. 

I made a spreadsheet to track availability by day for the segments I wanted and started searching each leg online.  I did one way searches for each takeoff to get the most granular detail I could.  From there I could just assemble the different legs into a trip, call the agent, and book.  I found no availability into Buenos Aires in December, nothing at all, but Montevideo was a wide open alternative.  I wanted to fly the longer flights in business and found a options for MIA-SCL and back, very limited JKF flights, and nothing out of LAX or SFO.  I was able to put together a trip, from MIA-SCL-IPC-2 nights-SCL-2 nights-MVD- 1 night-SCL-MIA.  I reran my search to confirm the flights were all still available and then called to book.

Booking was totally drama free.  After about 10 minutes on hold, not bad for a general member really, I got a friendly agent based in New York.  I gave her the flights, segment by segment and she found each one as expected.  She put it all together, priced it (80,000 miles and $120, as expected), and booked it.  A confirmation email landed in my inbox, I gave it a look, thanked her for her help, and that was it.

The key to booking this was doing the leg work before calling.  It took me several hours to plan it out and find the best routing.  Open ended bookings like this can be a very complex challenge because you are not constrained by locations and dates.  If I relied on the phone, it would have taken much longer and I would have been far less likely to find such a nice trip and timing.  I’m available to help with award bookings if you would like to use my award consulting service, just shoot me an email.